The 80's trends are back, and swimsuits are not the exception. Here I will show you to sew a sexy one piece, open back swimsuit in under one hour. This high cut 80’s inspired suit has scoop neck and low back and medium back coverage. It is fully lined with an additional shelf lining. You can get the pattern here
FABRIC REQUIRED: 58" or 60” (150 cm) wide fabric. 1 yard (7/8 meter) of swimwear fabric, 1 yard (7/8 meters) of lining fabric. If you are lining with the same swimwear fabric: 2 yards (1 ¾ meters) of swimwear fabric for exterior and lining.
NOTIONS: 1 7/8 yards (2 meters) of 3/8” elastic, ½ yard (1/2 meter) of ¾” (2 cm) elastic, thread.
GATHER your supplies. Fabric, lining fabric, thread, elastic. Make sure you have the tools needed: ball point sewing machine needles, sewing machine with zig zag stitch, overlock sewing machine (optional), paper scissors, fabric scissors, seam ripper, ruler, etc.
CUTTING LAYOUT For 58” / 60” (150 cm) fabric. All sizes.
Lay out the pattern pieces on your fabric following the cutting layout diagram. Cut each piece making sure to transfer all pattern markings to your fabric as well. Please note pieces 4, 5, 6 and 7 will not be cut in fabric (they will be used as elastic guides).
This swimsuit was sewn using an overlock/serger machine, but if you are only using a regular sewing machine go to http://www.sirenapatterns.com/blog where I have several tutorials on how to sew spandex using a regular sewing machine.
STEP 1: At center back, pin BACK (2) pieces, RIGHT sides together and matching notches. Do the same with BACK LINING (2) pieces. Place pinned BACK LINING (2) pieces on top of the pinned BACK (2) pieces, matching notches. You will have 4 layers. Sew the center back, using a very narrow stretch stitch or serge, leaving a ¼” (.7 cm) seam allowance.
STEP 2: Flip the BACK open, exposing the right sides of the lining and of the fabric, pinning wrong sides together. Baste with a small zigzag or serge it just outside seam allowances.
STEP 3: With RIGHT SIDES together, pin BACK (2) to FRONT (1) at crotch, matching notch and stretching as necessary. Sew using a very narrow stretch stitch or serge, leaving a ¼” (.7 cm) seam allowance.
STEP 4: With RIGHT SIDES together, pin BACK LINING to FRONT (1) Sew using a very narrow stretch stitch or serge, leaving a ¼” (6mm) seam allowance. You “sandwiched” the BACK inside the FRONT and FRONT LINING pieces. Flip over. You will have a clean finish on the crotch on the outside and on the inside.
STEP 5: Baste FRONT (1) to FRONT LINING with a small zigzag or serge it just outside seam allowances.
STEP 6: SHELF LINING Cut one piece of ¾” (2 cm) elastic, using the ELASTIC GUIDE (4). Fold the SHELF LINING (3) in half, marking the center with a pin. Do the same with the elastic. Pin elastic to WRONG SIDE of the bottom part of the shelf, matching centers. Pin ends even and stretch elastic to fit.
With elastic on top, sew using a short, wide zigzag or serge. Make sure to pin the beginning and end of the elastic to the beginning and end of the sides, stretch elastic as needed. With right sides together, pin FRONT (1) to SHELF LINING (3), matching notches. Baste with a small zigzag or serge it just outside seam allowances.
STEP 7: With RIGHT sides together, sew FRONT to BACK on sides and straps, matching notches, leaving a ¼” (6mm) seam allowance.
STEP 8: ELASTICS Cut one piece of elastic, using ELASTIC GUIDE (5). Cut one two pieces of elastics, using ELASTIC GUIDE (6). Cut one two pieces of elastic, using ELASTIC GUIDE (7). Lap ends of elastic ½” (1.25 cm) and stitch securely. Divide elastics into quarters and mark. Do the same with the neckline area, armholes and legs.
Pin elastics to WRONG SIDE, matching marks and stretching elastic to fit. With elastic on top, sew using a short, wide zigzag or serge. Make sure to pin the beginning and end of the elastic to the beginning and end of the sides, stretch elastic as needed
STEP 7: FINISHINGS Turn all elastics to INSIDE (on neckline, armholes and legs). Top stitch elastic with a medium zigzag ¼” (6mm) from fold, stretching as you stitch. Keep fabric pulled taut over edge of elastic. I recommend setting both the width and length to 3mm.
Your swimsuit is ready!
For the Sharon Pattern and other swimwear PDF patterns, sewing kits and more, click here.
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